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Fashion

Victoriana in Varanasi

The enduring allure of Austen’s women.

Photos by:

Jacky Nayak

Words by:

James Lalthanzuala

Fashion

Walking Varanasi

Wander the gulleys of Banaras, surrounded by a heavenly glow in handspun brocade worn ever so elegantly by Gayle.

Stylist James Lalthanzuala loves giving a new lease of life to second-hand clothing. “I find beauty in vintage pieces,” he says. “Second-hand clothes are of a particular style. You don’t get this kind of drama in fashion otherwise. I love the idea of merging the old with the new because this is exactly what defines India.”
Stylist James Lalthanzuala loves giving a new lease of life to second-hand clothing. “I find beauty in vintage pieces,” he says. “Second-hand clothes are of a particular style. You don’t get this kind of drama in fashion otherwise. I love the idea of merging the old with the new because this is exactly what defines India.”

JANE AUSTEN WASN’T trying to overthrow the patriarchy. The eighteenth century English author’s primary concern was to create women with agency. And a voice. Her works represent women with starkly different lives and thought processes, reminding the reader not just of a woman’s individuality but also about how class and societal pressures affect her choices and actions. Austen, like most authors of the time, wanted to lay out the human experience, and in doing so, offer her women and their inner worlds the centre stage.

A good example is in the famed Pride and Prejudice. Elizabeth Bennet is the lovable heroine most women can relate to or look up to. She’s witty, vivacious, deeply individualistic, and everyone’s beloved. Her strength and courage lie in wanting true love and respect instead of a marriage of convenience. But even as Austen glorifies this spirited woman, she’s not taking her side or dismissing other women’s experiences. While Lizzy is aghast at her cousin Mr. Collins’ proposal, her close friend Charlotte goes on to marry him. This is her explanation:

Of the many garments worn by Maongka, the most remarkable is a wedding gown hand-painted by Lalthanzuala and Sherwin Court. The duo sourced the gown from Lajpat Nagar. Painting the dress was a slow, meditative process: they spread it out on the floor, then used water paint, sketch pens, markers and spray paint to transform it. Without a particular idea in mind, they went wild on the fabric. It took them twenty-five hours over a period of two weeks to finish the dress.
For Maongka, the journey to Varanasi was her first time out of Nagaland. A resident of Mokokchung, a small town, she took the bus to Guwahati in Assam in the early hours of the morning. From there, she boarded a flight to Varanasi. It took two days for her to travel from home to the site of the shoot. Reaching Varanasi, she found herself overwhelmed by a city ablaze with activity. But being outdoors on the banks of the Ganga, with the sand in her feet, gave her a sense of freedom and opportunity.
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“I am not romantic, you know. I never was. I ask only a comfortable home; and, considering Mr. Collins’s character, connections, and situation in life, I am convinced that my chance of happiness with him is as fair as most people can boast on entering the marriage state.”

IT’S NOT DIFFICULT to believe that an Indian woman in the twenty-first century, faced with a decent arranged marriage proposal, wouldn’t have a reasoning similar to Charlotte’s. Similarly, there’s certainly plenty of women like Lizzy, who want love and romance and for whom marriage is not a calculated, logical decision. 

Lizzy is the protagonist, but not necessarily better than her friend. Her character arc is such that she must also go through a substantial emotional and mental journey, work on her prejudices, and emerge as a wiser, kinder woman. In this way, Austen is also giving her women the place to grow. In a patriarchal society where women are either seen as lesser beings or put on a pedestal, Lizzy is growing and evolving, making mistakes, being vulnerable, learning, and above all, loving.

The printed blouse worn by Maongka is from Zara. The Spanish brand was founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega in Galicia, Spain. The label changed the design, manufacturing and distribution processes in order to respond quickly to new trends, or what Ortega called “instant fashion”.
Ten years later, the first international store opened in Portugal. The world’s biggest fashion brand came to New Delhi in 2010, in a joint venture with the Tata Group. It reported a 40 per cent increase in sales in India in 2023.
Maongka wears a second-hand gown along with a headpiece made by Lalthanzuala—a repurposed hat that he found in a streetside market long ago. Here, a dress is paired with a yellow gyasar brocade from Banaras.

Aarushi Agrawal

Arushi Agrawal is a journalist, and extremely passionate about research, reading, and writing.

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A Broken Home

In Moulmein, in lower Burma, I was hated by large numbers of people – the only time in my life that I have been important enough for this to happen to me. I was sub-divisional police officer of the town, and in an aimless, petty kind of way anti-European feeling was very bitter. No one had the guts to raise a riot, but if a European woman went through the bazaars alone somebody would probably spit betel juice over her dress.

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