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A Creative Haven

In Goa, Ukrainian artist Anna Bulat finds the freedom to tell her country's story through music, amidst a serene and laidback artistic community.

Words by:

Aarushi Agrawal

Photos by:

Neeraj

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'Sometimes, art can be much more powerful than a gun'

Goa-based Ukrainian artist Anna Bulat’s goal is to be heard. While this means being appreciated for her music, it also means being given the space to express herself and be respected. Anna performs solo and with a band, and focuses primarily on fusion folk music, finding many fans of Ukrainian folk in Goa. “Indians really like Ukrainian music,” she says. With her music, she’s talking about the story of Ukraine. Its centuries-old folk culture details how different art forms developed and refutes the story of the invading Russians that say Ukraine was created as part of modern history. 

“It’s all propaganda. I’ve personally found a song whose lyrics are from the sixteenth century,” says Anna, adding that as an artist, she’s doing everything she can to speak up against the Russian invasion of her country. “Sometimes, art can be much more powerful than a gun,” she adds.

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By being in Goa, she’s found a safe space from where she’s releasing music and speaking to the world. “There’s a lot of different artists here from all around the world. The important thing is to find your own tribe or people with similar interests,” she says. Goa offers a calm, meditative space which gives artists the freedom to really introspect and fearlessly express themselves. 

Lekha, an Indian musician who also lives there, agrees. “Goa is a space full of nature and has the kind of people who appreciate it. Artists from all over the world have moved here for many reasons. It gives you that open, free space to work on their art,” says Lekha. As a child, Lekha’s mother encouraged her to pursue different performing arts like singing and dancing, but becoming a DJ happened rather organically for her. She likes to immerse herself in music, engaging with it at a deep and intimate level. It is in Goa that she finds the space and calm to do this. 

IT’S A PLACE where Indian influences meet a strong Portuguese history and an irrefutable hippie culture of the 60s and 70s, offering inspiration and solace to a diverse range of artists. Further, given Goa’s laidback vibe, one is unencumbered, pressurised neither to act a certain way, nor to participate in any type of rat race. “The nightlife in Goa is not as fast paced as other cities like Mumbai, Pune or Delhi. It’s for artists who want to live the slow life. They can actually focus on their art and not be bothered by the cycle of speed and exhaustion,” says Lekha. 

Against a backdrop of crashing waves and flowing winds, Goa offers refuge from the capitalist work culture of grind, hustle, and often, burnout. In line with places like Ibiza, Formentera, and Bali, which have strong reputations as party places, Goa is also known for its raves and party scene. But in the quieter lanes and homes of these places comes together a community of like-minded people who create and express differently.

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Together, they give the place a subculture where artists use the place almost like a canvas, being inspired by it and imprinting their personality onto it. For instance, in Ibiza, as the parties wind down, people awaken to go to yoga retreats or to trek through Unesco World Heritage sites. Mick Jagger’s daughter Jade Jagger often talks about life on the island and the gorgeous views that are an everyday affair there. Close to Ibiza is Formentera, which has a fascinating history ranging from occupation by pirates to fighting during the Spanish Civil War, is now becoming the go-to place for Europe’s bohemians. Here one can lounge on comfortable chairs, enjoying the aquamarine sea and almost-white sand. Similarly, Bali is known for its heavy tourist footfall but relatively fewer people explore Old Bali, where one can experience temples and beaches, kick back at spas and take home handicrafts.

Such places give one the space to breathe and create unabashedly. As more people adopt these places as home, they emerge as spaces where a different reality flourishes. Priorities are different, ways of self-expression vary, and thinking about the world comes with more empathy. These diverse, international communities also help and support each other, offering unique perspectives and plenty of opportunity. Reminiscent of John Lennon’s prayer Imagine, such subcultures are built on a belief in the inherent goodness of people. As Lekha points out, “Artists are ultimately looking for a safe space where they can express themselves without being judged or being in a box. That’s Goa.”

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Aarushi Agrawal

Arushi Agrawal is a journalist, passionate about research, reading, and writing.

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