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Paris Dispatch

THEATRE OF THE ABSURD

How the fashion show has transformed in the age of social media.

Photos by:

Rohit Chawla

Words by:

Rohit Chawla

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Pomp and Splendour

The stage is set for our lovers, swaddled in silk, decked in finery, with nothing to enjoy but each other.

Attention spans have shrunk to whole new levels of late, and research indicates that digital devices are to blame for the disruption.
Attention spans have shrunk to whole new levels of late, and research indicates that digital devices are to blame for the disruption.

My first sojourn at the Paris Fashion Week was many moons ago, at a time when Madhu Sapre and Milind Soman were our reigning super models and attempting to take their first baby steps, albeit gingerly, on the mighty catwalks at Salle Rivoli beneath the hallowed Louvre museum itself. 

Fashion shows then were a somewhat sombre affair. Everybody invariably wore black, and the pecking order of the front row was in its infancy and not necessarily a matter of life and death like today. The humble camera reigned supreme as even the mobile phone was a little twinkle in Nokia’s eye. The paparazzi were obedient and almost well behaved. And mercifully, the ubiquitous smart phone and the all-pervading Instagram ‘show and tell’ culture had not completely overwhelmed and corrupted our collective conscience. 

It was difficult to imagine that one day an Indian designer could storm that haute couture firmament with authority and create a visual extravagance of scale and panache, outdoing many established and legendary fashion brands. The sheer poetry of form and graphic sensibility that Gaurav Gupta unveiled on the Parisian catwalk both delighted and  invigorated my somewhat jaded photographic eyes.

I believe that fashion shows are primarily a brand statement of intent and creativity.

The internet is omnipotent and the smartphone is omniscient, with both wreaking havoc on our concentration.
In fashion, where images reign supreme, it’s a double-edged sword: it is at once a gallery, a research tool and a marketplace.
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They are projections of wearable art for an audience hungry for some visual entertainment. After all, the mundane fashion that we subscribe to in our own miserable attires cannot possibly be entertaining on a catwalk with hungry expectant eyes waiting to consume their visual drug for the day. 

But what has gone totally haywire and turned the fashion spectacle into a true theatre of the absurd is the audience itself. It’s no longer about anything but the insatiable desire to broadcast and curate those ten microseconds where one is actually in close proximity to fame.

When Cardi B arrived fashionably late in her parrot green showstopper outfit accompanied by her 168 million Instagram followers, it created a minor riot and turned the front-row celebrities and till then mighty influencers into a desperate wannabe mob. They were fighting among themselves to squeeze into that one elusive frame with the pop star in the hope that it would provide them that one fleeting visual spark and succour that justifies a hollow existence.

For me, in that very instant, the front row became the ‘Death Row’. A magical surreal setting with the condemned holding on to that last glimmer of hope before fashion could hang itself. 

And much before Beyoncé found her new clothes.

Belcalis Almánzar, known as Cardi B., is a star that Instagram birthed. She first found fame in 2011 after her videotaped rants went viral on Vine and Instagram. Her unfiltered social media game is an attestation to the fact that anyone who has the power to entertain can shoot up to fame. Her rise has been meteoric, with her track ‘WAP’ going viral on TikTok in 2020. Cardi B. has showcased Gaurav Gupta’s designs to her 169 million Instagram followers several times, when she wore him for her ‘No Love’ video in 2022 and to the Grammy’s in 2023. She is pictured here at Gaurav Gupta’s show at the Palais de Tokyo, at Paris Haute Couture Week.
Gaurav Gupta was invited to show at Paris Haute Couture Week by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in 2023, almost two decades after his debut as a designer. His style has evolved over the years, and his signature technique now blends drapery with structure and traditional Indian craft. He has dressed many stars in his sculptural silhouettes, from Kylie Minogue to Fan Bingbing.
Here, Gupta takes a bow to much adulation in a show that was broadcast live on YouTube. Previous page: The front row spectacle from left to right: Fan Bingbing, Leonie Hanne, Madeleine Arthur. In the image above: Lise Pierron, Samir Sabe, Amanda Diaz and Tayshia Adams.

Rohit Chawla

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A Broken Home

In Moulmein, in lower Burma, I was hated by large numbers of people – the only time in my life that I have been important enough for this to happen to me. I was sub-divisional police officer of the town, and in an aimless, petty kind of way anti-European feeling was very bitter. No one had the guts to raise a riot, but if a European woman went through the bazaars alone somebody would probably spit betel juice over her dress.

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