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Basant kothi

Deepti Yadav transcends the labels of “high” and “low” fashion, in a design language that gravitates toward neutral colours and a clean aesthetic.

Words by:

Aarushi Agrawal

Photos by:

Nitin Sadana

“Nothing is machine made or imported. It’s important for me to promote our workmanship.”

The daughter of an Army officer, Deepti Yadav spent parts of her childhood dotted across different parts of India. The family moved from Kashmir to Ladakh; Punjab to Assam. As instructive as the experience was, so was her mother’s natural knack for picking up local arts and handicrafts. 

“Army wives are very good at getting used to a place, picking up local handicrafts and doing up the houses with limited budgets,” she says. Their house was a mishmash of this and that; a variety of handicrafts, from north east’s cane furniture to Kashmir’s crewel embroidery and Naga shawls. Perhaps that’s why Basant Kothi began its life as a home furnishing label. It was a chance experiment with garments that propelled her into fashion. 

Stranger still is Yadav’s education in finance. Finance turned to be instructive, Yadav doesn’t concern herself with concepts like high and low fashion. She preoccupies herself with structure, cut and simplicity. Basant Kothi is thus an expression of Yadav’s minimalism, her partiality to neutral colours and a clean aesthetic.

There is also a focus on functionality. By adding pockets to her garments, while retaining a core Indianness to its aesthetic, Yadav modernises what is often shrugged off as a simple shalwar kameez.

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I woke up like this

Take a peek behind the scenes as Wendy slips into crisp ensembles that are effortlessly chic.

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Teesta wears a Basant Kothi top; Wendy wears Ezra from Basant Kothi; Wendy wears Iris from Basant Kothi.

There is no unnecessary drama in her pieces. She is partial to straight lines as opposed to cinched waists, elegant expressions that can be toned up or down. 

She works out of a studio in Gurgaon and is devoted to a discovery and use of sustainable fabrics like cotton and linen. She also experiments with materials such as mango wood acquired from trees which are old and going to get cut. Brass items are handmade by artisans and glass items come from handblown glass. “Nothing is machine made or imported. It’s important for me to promote our workmanship,” she says. 

This connection with the work of local craftspeople is a result of the atmosphere Yadav grew up in. There’s two ways Yadav goes about finding these artisans to work with. First there is a tightly knit craft community of India and then there is her love for travel and search for artisans across different towns in India. These have taken her crisscrossing through the country from Bagru and Jaipur in Rajasthan to Kashmir, and Moradabad and Firozabad in Uttar Pradesh. 

A core concern of the brand is a commitment to sustainability. In her personal life, this manifests itself as love and re-love, that is to wear the same piece again and again. Having a child further cemented her belief in sustainable practices. Soon after giving birth to her daughter, Yadav started thinking about the world she’s raising her child in. 

With the poor air quality and resource exploitation, Yadav believes that it is her imperative, an active effort to live a more sustainable lifestyle. “I realised that you can’t expect everyone else to change. I have to make the change myself,” she says. She began by dressing her daughter in hand-me-downs, instead of continuously buying new clothes.

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Wendy wears Alana (left) and Rabia (right) from Basant Kothi.

“I want to do my bit to leave a better place for my daughter, for all kids,” she says.

Yadav’s resolve to follow sustainable principles is reflected in the production process at Basant Kothi. And there are definite challenges along the way, especially when it comes to tracing the origins of a fabric. It has often been tricky to decipher the type of seed a plant was grown from, and whether it was cultivated using organic methods. But Yadav does what she can. For instance, she works a lot with linen since it is made out of fibre from the flax plant—a low-maintenance crop that doesn’t require too much pesticide and grows well if there is adequate rain.

But there is an obvious downside to choosing sustainable fabrics: the prices are a lot higher compared to synthetic fabrics. Each step matters, especially the first and this is Yadav’s in the right direction. 

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Teesta wears Rahat from Basant Kothi; Vendy wears Layla pants from Basant Kothi.
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Basant Kothi is an artisanal, sustainable brand that emphasises on material and clean designs. While comfort is a priority, it doesn't compromise on minimal and crisp silhouettes.

Aarushi Agrawal

Arushi Agrawal is a journalist, and extremely passionate about research, reading, and writing.

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